Day 195 - Zimbabwe 🇿🇼

Well, here we are. Our final country of this journey! Zimbabwe has one hell of a tale to tell.

Zimbabwe began the twentieth century as a British colony called “Rhodesia”. Named after the notoriously racist mining magnate Cecil Rhodes. Cecil was also a friend of Dorothy, in love with his private secretary Neville Pickering. Sadly for gay people in Zimbabwe, Cecil and Neville kept their relationship private. Rhodesia outlawed homosexuality in 1891. Modern-day Zimbabwe is a country where 50% of gay people have been physically assaulted. That is if they haven’t already been sent to prison for 14 years just for being true to who they are. Cecil, great work sister.

Zimbabwe has been an independent country since 1980. At this point, we enter the Robert Mugabe chapter of Zimbabwe’s story. Mugabe’s rule is synonymous with ethnic cleansing, corruption and the worst monetary policy known to humankind. Under Mugabe’s leadership, hyperinflation reached levels of 79,600,000,000% per month in 2008. This beats Venezuela’s shocking hyperinflation hands-down. Inflation was so rife that Zimbabwe printed a Z$100,000,000,000,000 (one hundred trillion dollars) banknote. All of which featured Zimbabwe’s now-infamous balancing rocks. They certainly proved a lot more stable than the Zimbabwean currency. Luckily for Zimbabwe Mugabe was deposed of his duties in 2017.

One hundred trillion dollars

Despite Zimbabwe’s misfortune with its past leaders, Zimbabwe is known for being a country of superlatives, thanks to its rich farmlands and plentiful gold and diamond reserves. Zimbabwe is also home to Victoria Falls (the largest waterfall in the world) and Lake Kariba (the largest man-made lake in terms of volume). Wait, isn’t that Zambia? Well yes, but both of these mammoth landmarks actually span both countries.

Zambezi National Park, Zimbabwe

Anyway, enough of the geography lesson. Realising that this was my last country of this journey, I thought it was fitting to include the perspective of someone who knows far more about Zimbabwe than I do.

I reached out to a close friend Wadzi to interview her about Zimbabwe. Wadzi is Zimbabwean, but lives in Germany. If this experience taught me anything, it’s that I might be able to write regularly, but my interviewing skills are very lacking…

Q - What is one thing that might surprise people about Zimbabwe?

A - “The US Dollar is a widely accepted and preferred currency”.

This answer doesn’t surprise me at all knowing Wadzi. Of all of the people I know, Wadzi is the master of commerce. I’ve never seen anyone with the ability to get through the Zalando checkout faster than Wadzi. If only it was an Olympic sport.

Q - What’s do you miss most about Zimbabwe?

A - “The SUN and thunderstorms lol.”

I find this astonishing. After living with Wadzi in Coventry for a year, I never once heard her complain about the weather. Well, other than every single time we stepped outside.

Q - What is the one thing a visitor must do when going to Zim?

A - “Definitely visit the Victoria Falls”.

I’m buying my tickets now. My Zambian tour guide will be so sorely disappointed. 

Left with the feeling that this interview didn’t quite provide the David Frost level of insight I was aiming for I scoured my memories and the internet to unearth two final facts about Zimbabwe.

Firstly, from nights out with Wadzi I know the Zimbabwean driving license is the weirdest thing I’ve ever seen in a wallet. It’s guaranteed to get its owner ejected just about any nightclub, bar or airport. The reason for this is the Zimbabwean driving license is made from solid metal with oxidised lettering. A unique, and hardwearing approach to driving licenses.

A genuine Zimbabwe driving license. Just try convincing the bouncer…

The second morsel I present for you is that Zimbabwe’s biggest tree, the imaginatively named “The Big Tree” in Chirinda Forest is a whopping 65m tall and measures 4.5m in diameter. It’s estimated to be over 1000 years old is now a national monument in Zimbabwe.

The big tree isn’t the only natural wonder in Zimbabwe - the country is endowed with a vast wealth of wildlife in its ten national parks filled with all of the big five and 685 species of bird.

Right, I think this wraps up today’s post and this whole series for that matter. I really need a cold Zambezi. 

I’m going to take a bit of a break now. After writing 198 blog posts this year it’s time for me to do something else. There have been times it’s been tough writing every day. Some days I genuinely felt like throwing in the towel.

Try knocking out a blog post at 11:43 on a Friday night after a day’s work, three beers and a shot of aquavit. You’ll know what I mean.

As for today’s destination Zimbabwe, there could have been no finer country to finish this project. It’s unlikely to be a fast transformation, but I genuinely hope Zimbabwe’s fortunes improve now Mugabe’s reign is over.

Anyway, if you’ve read these posts I hope you’ve enjoyed them, and like me learned something along the way. I’m going to write one final post delving into what I’ve learned on this journey.

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Day 194 - Zambia 🇿🇲

Tonight we’re almost at the end of our journey. We’ve reached Zambia, our penultimate destination. I can’t believe we’re almost there!

Zambia is a landlocked country spanning central and Southern Africa bordering eight other countries, including our final destination, Zimbabwe. Zambia is home to 73 ethnic groups, and one of only two only places in the world where the currency is named the “kwacha”. (The other country is Malawi. Thanks Norma for pointing this out!) Kwacha translates to "dawn”, and the name was picked following Zambia’s independence from Britain in 1964.

From 1972 to 1991 Zambia was a one-party state, but has now transitioned peacefully to a multiparty democracy. Last week Zambia saw successful elections and a new Zambian president, Hakainde Hichilema was elected on the back of policies promising to expand copper production.

Why expand copper production? Well, Zambia is one of the world’s largest exporters of copper making up at least 75% of Zambia’s exports. Even though this is a gigantic amount of copper, Zambia’s copper production has stagnated over the past few decades. This is not ideal in a world addicted to electronics.

The Victoria Falls Bridge spanning the Zambezi in Zambia

Other than a uniquely named currency and copper mines, Zambia is known for its namesake river, the River Zambezi. The Zambezi provides water, power and food for Zambia. The Zambezi is dammed to form Lake Kariba, the world’s largest man-made lake by volume. It’s 223 km long.

The Zambezi is also massively popular with tourists in Zambia, most notably for the world-famous Victoria Falls on the border with Zimbabwe. The Victoria Falls are the largest single sheet falling waterfall in the world. Other Zambezi river highlights include a sedate cruise or, if you’re completely insane and want to join the likes of Will Smith and Ewan McGregor, you can bungee jumping from the Victoria Falls bridge. At 111 metres high, let’s hope the rope is well maintained.

Zambia is one of the few places in the world where you’ll find termite hills the size of houses and is also, unrelatedly the birthplace of Zamrock. Zamrock, often described as the combined sound of Jimi Hendrix and James Brown is a genre of psychedelic rock that emerged from Zambia in the 1970s. It’s really rather good.

See you tomorrow, for our trip over the border into Zimbabwe.

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Day 182 - Uganda 🇺🇬

Boy, this is going to be an interesting one. 

The only thing I know about Uganda, other than it’s a big coffee grower, is that in my living memory it tried to pass a law sentencing anyone convicted of same-sex sexual activity with the death penalty. This was later, reduced to life imprisonment, but understandably Uganda is not high on my list of countries that I want to visit. 

The law was eventually annulled after pressure and sanctions from the US. However, in 2021 Uganda is once again legislating to send gay people to prison. Luckily this legislation has not passed, and there is little chance of it passing. 

Could this mean that things are about to finally get a little better for Uganda’s LGBT community? Am I being a little unfair in calling Uganda out on its treatment of gay people? After all, many countries such as Afghanistan, Brunei, Iran, Nigeria, Saudi Arabia, Somalia, and the UAE prescribe the death penalty for homosexuality. Either way, it’s something that stuck in my mind and I think it’s an issue worth raising. 

It’s also worth pointing out that there’s a big difference between a country’s current government and the country itself. For example, you’d probably not expect the UK to have an incredibly large proportion of passionately pro-EU citizens, but it does! 

Anyway, back to Uganda:

• Uganda is home to half the World’s surviving 1004 or so mountain gorillas

• Ugandan’s refer to potatoes as ”Irish”

• Uganda is also home to some incredible nature such as the stunning snow-capped Rwenzori Mountains, the Murchison Falls and the fantastically named Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

• Tragically Uganda had one of the highest rates of HIV/AIDs of any country in the world - at one point 20% of the population was afflicted. Fortunately, Uganda has since experienced the sharpest decrease in HIV/AIDS-related deaths with an 88% decrease in 27 years

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Day 178 - Tunisia 🇹🇳

Today we make a quick stop in Tunisia, the Northernmost country in Africa as well as the smallest country in Northern Africa. 

Tunisia was the country that kicked off the Arab Spring in 2010 with a frustrated street vendor setting himself on fire in protest against the government. The uprising quickly gathered pace and brought down the Tunisian government as well as the Lybian and Egyptian governments. Since then Tunisia is gradually moved towards having a more democratic government.

Tunisia is a rather unexpected location for filming Hollywood movies such as Star Wars, Indiana Jones and The English Patient. Tunisia was used for filming multiple Star Wars movies and was the setting for Tatooine. You can actually go on a road-trip around Tunisia taking in all of these movie locations.

This road trip may get even easier in the future with very tentative plans emerging for a tunnel linking Tunisia with nearby Sicily. The tunnel would be a massive 155 km long but would be a massive boost for Tunisia as the majority of its trade is with the EU.

Okay, you know the deal. It’s Friday and it’s sunny (well by Northern European standards at least). Therefore I need a drink. Tonight’s treat is a cold Celtia. Cheers.

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Day 175 - Togo 🇹🇬

Today we’re not visiting the South Pacific island nation of Togo. No, Togo is not in the Pacific at all. Togo is a West African country of eight and a half million people, who apparently were particularly unhappy in 2013.  Don’t say I don’t serve up facts to-go.

Togo is one of the smaller West African nations as it’s smaller than Latvia. Togo is wedged between Ghana and Benin and is a particularly narrow country and is only 160 km wide at its widest point.

During the 1700s, Togo was colonised by Denmark before becoming the German protectorate of Togoland in 1884. After World War One Togo became administered by France before eventually gaining independence in 1960. Ever since a military coup in 1963, Togo has been run by the same Gnassingbé family despite numerous protests. 

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Definitive proof Togo is in West Africa

In late 2015 Africa's largest ivory seizure in 25 years was made in Togo's capital Lomé. The seizure weighed over 4 tons and was likely the result of poaching over 800 elephants.

If you decide to visit Togo, apparently the Koklo Meme, or grilled chicken is particularly good.

Anyway, I have to go. Catch you tomorrow!

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Day 173 - Tanzania 🇹🇿

5 quick facts about Tanzania

• Tanzania has a rapidly growing population. Currently, the population is around 61 million, but it’s grown by over 16 million people in the last 9 years.

• Tanzania is home to Mount Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa and the fourth most topologically prominent peak in the world.

• Tanzania is also home to Africa’s lowest point - the floor of Lake Tanganyika, Africa’s deepest laking, stretching all the way down – 358m below sea level. Lake Tanganyika is the second-oldest freshwater lake in the world. What’s more three of Africa’s Great Lakes are partly within Tanzania’s borders.

• Freddie Mercury was from Zanzibar, Tanzania. In case you’re wondering Zanzibar is a semi-autonomous island off the coast of Tanzania.

• The largest mammal migration, the great wildebeest migration takes place in Tanzania in the Serengeti National Park.

Anyway, I’m done for the day, hakuna matata!

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Ngorongoro Crater, Tanzania

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Day 167 - Sudan 🇸🇩

Today takes us to Sudan. A fascinating country with a turbulent past. 

Sudan was one of the reasons I started this project. I know that sounds absurd, but during the deep, dark depths of this winter’s lockdown, I rewatched Michael Palin’s Pole to Pole. It was a show I enjoyed on Sunday nights as a young child, and Palin’s adventure left a lasting impression on me.

I was particularly taken by Palin’s experiences in Khartoum where he visited the dwindling British presence epitomised by the faded grandeur of the Sudan Club. Sudan was part of the British Empire as Anglo-Egyptian Sudan until 1956. In Khartoum’s blistering heat Palin interviewed an aged Professor Woodruff who scorned the waiting staff and warned him from eating the salad if he wanted to avoid dysentery. Apparently, the Sudan Club served a mean pool-side scotch egg though. 

Palin visits the Sudan Club at 24:50

This led me down a lockdown-driven rabbit hole. Where was the Sudan Club? Did it still exist? Were the salads safe to eat? Does it still serve scotch eggs? If not, what had become of it and of the former members? 

I started researching the history of the Sudan Club. Frustratingly the internet has almost no traces of the existence of this once opulent oasis. I eventually discovered a Facebook group organising a reunion for past members. I eventually ended up talking to a past member, Ruth. She was incredibly kind and indulged my curiosity.

Ruth didn’t know exactly what had happened to the Sudan Club, but she explained The New Sudan Club (the site Michael visited) wasn’t actually the original Sudan Club. It was created when the government decided to requisition the original club. In exchange, the government confiscated the home of a wealthy Greek family and given to British ex-pats as a replacement club. Eventually, the property was returned to its rightful owners. Ruth wasn’t sure if another site was ever found for the club. Khartoum is now home to a “Greek Club”. Could this be the same club? Does it now serve souvlaki instead of scotch eggs? I guess we’ll never know.

Courtesy of Khartoum's Sudan Club Reunion

One detail I can fill in though is that Professor Woodruff, who died in 1992 was incidentally was a professor of tropical medicine. So perhaps his advice on the salads was worth taking.

Before I go, I wanted to share one other story about Sudan. Sudan is in a special minority of countries as it is actively denying a territorial claim. The area in question is Bir Tawil, a 2060 square km stretch of land that both Egypt and Sudan deny is theirs. Why, because both countries have their eye on a much larger piece of land named the Halaib Triangle. In this treacherous game of geopolitics, the loser gets stuck with the tiny, almost worthless Bir Tawil. This was the perfect opportunity for the American Jack Shenker to step in and attempt to claim it for his daughter back in 2014. Unsurprisingly for everyone other than Jack Shenker, this scheme didn’t go so well… 

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Day 164 - South Sudan 🇸🇸

We’ve finally made it to the World’s newest, officially recognised country - South Sudan! South Sudan was created in 2011 following a referendum where 98.83% reportedly voted for independence. South Sudan is arguably also one of the world’s most elusive countries. It has so far proved very hard to research.

Since independence, South Sudan has been engulfed in the South Sudanese Civil war that raged for seven years from 2013 until 2020. An estimated 400,000 people are thought to have been killed before a peace deal was signed. Since the civil war very little has been done to improve the lives of South Sudanese people. For example, only  1.9% of children complete primary school. Unsurprisingly, South Sudan is one of the poorest countries in the world. 

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As I said, South Sudan is one of those countries that it’s really hard to research - there are very few pictures on the internet, even of its national parks and wildlife reserves. One thing that is pretty well documented though is that South Sudan is the setting for one of the worlds greatest wildlife migrations. Each year roughly two million kobs, gazelle and other antelope species move from the Sudds and Bandingilo National Park to Boma National Park and then to Ethiopia.

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Day 163 - South Africa 🇿🇦

Today we’re staying in Africa and heading due-south to a place I’ve wanted to visit for a very long time: South Africa.

Given there’s so much to say about South Africa, we’re going to keep this post nutrient-dense and kick things off with some facts before veering off into holiday plans. This is another one of those posts that will act more as a to-do list for when I eventually get to visit South Africa.

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Let’s start off with our daily dose of facts. South Africa is the largest country in Southern Africa. Talking of largest, South Africa hosts the largest cycle race in the world, the Cape Town cycle tour. The tour involves put to 35,000 across a 109 km route. If they’re lucky they’ll see some penguins on their journey, even if it seems a little ridiculous to find Penguins in a country as warm as South Africa. South Africa is the only country in the entire African continent where same-sex marriage is legal. It’s also home to many pairs of gay penguins.

South Africa believes in distribution when it comes to spreading out seats of power with its three capital cities, Pretoria, Cape Town and Bloemfontein. However this doesn’t apply to income equality as South Africa has the world's highest level of income inequality, according to the World Bank.

Bo-Kaap, Cape Town, South Africa

That’s enough education for one day. On to the holiday planning. Here is a rough list of things I’d like to do in South Africa:

• Visit Cape Town and hopefully stay in The Silo. I’d also want to take in the sights including the V&A Waterfront, Boulders Beach Bo-Kaap and tour Chapman’s Peak

• Climb Table Mountain and take in the views

• Visit the Robben Island Museum, the island prison where Nelson Mandela was held captive off the coast of Cape Town

• Visit the Cape of Good Hope

• Go on a vineyard tour, perhaps in the Stellenbosch and Franschoek region

• Visit the Big Hole diamond mine

• Go hiking in the Drakensberg Mountains

• Go on safari and take in South Africa’s incredible wildlife - there are so many amazing places to do this - perhaps I’d start with the Pilanesberg Game Reserve or maybe the iconic sights of the Kruger National Park

• Visit the Mandela House and Apartheid Museum in Johannesburg

There’s simply so much to do in South Africa. This calls for a Castle Lager. Who am I kidding, it’s going to be a Carlsberg.

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Day 162 - Somalia 🇸🇴

Today we take a nerve-wracking trip to Somalia. Somalia is a similar size to France and has the longest coast on Africa’s mainland at a vast 3,333 km in length. This isn’t what Somalia is most known for though.

Recently Somalia has been mostly known for Somali pirates that have terrorised and looted ships off the coast of Somalia in exchange for kidnap ransoms. Somalia is also well known as the home of the terrorist militant group Al-Shabaab. 

These problems stem from Somalia’s turbulent past that includes multiple civil wars, becoming a failed state and terrorist attacks. It’s unsurprising then that Somalia is one of the poorest countries in the world.

Recently the US has provided supports to the Somali government in fighting Al-Shabaab and a whole host of states have supported Somalia in attempts to stamp out piracy.

Somalia technically also includes the un-recognised state of Somaliland that has been independently governed since 1991 and is seeking international representation. Sadly for Somaliland, it hasn’t yet been recognised by any other country or international organisation.

Let’s hope Somalia and Somaliland’s futures are brighter than their recent past. Somalia has a wealth of beautiful beaches and national parks. One day Somalia will be a fantastic place to visit!

Mogadishu, Somalia

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