Today we don’t travel far at all. We cross the Western Iranian border to the neighbouring country of Iraq.

Iraq was once Mesopotamia, and gave the world the gifts of astronomy, maths and writing.

Iraq has not had such a kind recent history. The dictatorial rule of Saddam Hussein, wars with Iran and Kuwait, followed by the Gulf War, eventual US-led invasion in 2003, and then the rise of Isis in the 2010s has left Iraq in a precarious position.

Today Iraq is now caught in a proxy war between Iran and the US. Both Iraq and the US are desperate to assert their influence on Iraq. Iran is reportedly funding Iraqi paramilitary groups in a bid to undermine the Iraqi government and US influence in Iraq. The geopolitics of this region really is not simple. However, in an unexpected 2020 twist, it seems that the coronavirus pandemic may be leading to Iran sending less money to these paramilitary groups. Could this ultimately lead to a more stable Iraq? 

Despite Iraq’s recent turbulent history, Iraq has many attractions include breathtaking mountains, shimmering deserts and a wealth of ancient archaeological sites.

I was shocked to discover that not only do the Hanging Gardens of Babylon exist, but they are located in modern-day Iraq. Iraq is also home to the worlds largest cemetery, Wadi-al-Salaam.

One other bizarre artefact located somewhere in a vault in Iraq is the Blood Qur'an. The Blood Qur'an is a copy of the Qur'an supposedly written entirely with the blood of Saddam Hussein. Saddam commissioned the book for his 60th birthday in 1997. Since the fall of Baghdad, the so-called 'Blood Koran' has stayed locked away, out of sight.

On a less macabre note, I’ll leave you with a recipe for Iraq’s national dish, masgouf, a grilled freshwater fish dish flavoured with spices.